Brooching it diplomatically

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Whenever one watches the Us Secretary of State Madeleine Albright on TV, one cannot but notice her extravagant jewellery. Few people realise, however, that the restrained beauty of this jewellery is often invested with an unmistakable message: After the Iraqi press portrayed her as a she met with Iraqi officials. During the difficult Middle East peace talks, a dove of peace adorned her shoulder and watched over the proceedings. Mrs Albright employs her diplomacy, a weapon barred to men. 61 artists from 16 countries responded to the challenge suggested by Helen Drutt from Philadelphia, to create highly individual brooches themed with Albright's strategic use of adornment. The results are a glittering show of jewellery covering a wide spectrum of shapes, materials and meaning. Each artist interpreted the challenge in a different way. While some boldly emphasized thier political meassage, others choose a more oblique presentation.